Salty Dog August

On September 23, 2012

The tick list –

  1. Electric Blue, E4 6A, DWS,  Onsight
  2. Warpath, E5 6A, onsight
  3. Run fast Run Free, E5 6A, Onsight
  4. The Cruise, E5 6B, Onsight

 

At the end of a summer centered around competing in the European Youth Cups I had one weekend booked in since January that I was really looking forwards to. Alpkit have a holiday every year, they take their Tipi across to Anglesey on the north coast of wales.

The Alpkit camp, Credit Alex Ekins

Alpkit is quite a grassroots company that has grown into a recognized and popular outdoors equipment company, I have grown up on the Alpkit winter bouldering league that is held each year at the Nottingham Climbing Center. It is run by a bunch of real outdoorsy people who like to spend lots of time doing the activities there kit is designed for. I have been an athlete on there team for many years supporting a local company that employs many friends of mine.

The weekend was brilliant, I found to my delight that after a dubious start of torrential rain, wales was once again the much sought after sunny paradise that people speak wistfully of. Ben Meakin and myself spent the weekend doing some fun sea cliff climbing.

After the dampness of the night was soaked up by the ever stronger sun we stood looking at the waterfall falling over the routes we had talked of doing on Roscolyn. Wandering around the headland we peeped down at the other potential line to find rather horrifyingly that this line was dry. This threw us into the deep end, literally!

Electric Blue, E4 6a, Roscolin Credit Dan Bradley

The first route we did was Electric Blue (E4 6a), however we did this in the more popular deepwater solo style. This was my first deepwater solo and quite a gripping affair. We both did it first go to our relief, it was amazing to be so exposed and in such a great position and not attached to the rock at all but know that if you were to fall it would be ok.

 

I didn’t want to call it a day at that so we made our way across an interesting approach and I battled my way up Warpath E5 6a. Enough had been done for that day, swimming in the sea latter gave us an idea of how could things could have got.

Warpath E5 6a, Roscolin, Credit Dan Bradley

Day two was another stunner condition wise and Gogarth was almost a relaxing place to be. The first route we did was Run fast Run free E5 6a an amazing crack climb, the highlight being a transition from one clean crack to the next a couple of feet to the right.. The fear came out at the top of the Cruise E5 6B which flared out at the top into a desperate off width pod.

Run Fast Run Free, E5 6a, Gogarth upper tier Credit Dan Bradley

The trip was well and truly rounded off with a midnight swim in the cove under a bright moon and phosphorescence twinkling in the water. Bitterly cold but amazing!

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